The Widow ("white"), 1997
What: The House of Viktor & Rolf
Where: Barbican Art Gallery, Level 3, London
When: 11 AM - 6 PM, June 18 - September 21, 2008
How (much?): £8 / £6 concession
You've probably seen the iconic looking posters on the underground. You probably thought, 'that looks pretty damn stylish. I'm going to go and see that.' And then of course, you never quite made it. It's ok. Like us, you wondered if it's really worth the hype or if the poster alone was enough to wet your appetite. Well is it?
In Praise: Viktor and Rolf are fanfuckingtastic. Their collection of surrealistic haute couture drips with fantasy and allure, elegance, irony, humour and incredible conceptualism. Highlights are Russian Doll, Bedtime Story, The Fashion Show and the Blue Collection. Out-sized silk bows, atomic-bomb necklines and salaciously extravagant tailoring will make your mouth gawp in delectable desire. V&R dress your innermost dreams that echoe with the scent of you're childhood, yet you'll never feel so empowered. It's similar to the potent fairytalistic hum of Tim Walker's editorial effigies.
Over hyped? While the tailoring deserves a standing ovation, attention to detail does wane and nowhere near justifies the mammoth cost per garment (apparently £800 for a single shirt). It seems the duo has sold out to commercialism with particular promotional fuss over debut fragrance Flowerbomb. While their conceptual performances are truly marvellous, there are moments when the clothes rely on spectacular effects to distract from plainer tailoring.
Tip: The central feature – the doll's house - displays replicas of the duo's 'dreams in miniatures' collections on 70cm porcelain dolls. It's a space filler, so spend time milking your style-glands over the bona-fide collections instead.
Verdict: Go and see this exhibition.
Words: Tiffany Tondut
Photography : Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin