Theme: An all black collection inspired by shells may sound odd. After all who’s ever picked up a black shell on a beach besides Blackpool?! Putting this thought aside, the curvy sculptured collection is surprisingly sumptuous. Using a mix of wool and silk effectively evoked the architecture of shells. Furthermore, the signature heavy black eyebrows and panda eyes injected a soft modern twist.

The juxtaposition of classic and edgy perhaps harks back to her Californian roots. Based on seashells that Groover collected as a child, her move to London has influenced her to challenge the traditional black label formula, making it unexpectedly avant-garde. Take for example the hood that functions like the canvas top of a convertible. Topped off with a sprinkle of modern asymmetrical cuts and half moon earrings saved the collection from being too safe. Groover has certainly come out of her shell with this classically sculptural and subtly edgy collection.

Credit Crunch Rating: Perhaps Groover ran out of money for new coloured fabrics!
Quality of Front Row: Young journos, Japanese buyers and youthful fashion editors still in diapers.
Quirk Level: not that high, more classy than ultra sassy.
Target Market: Minimalist beautiful androids (is there such a thing?!)
Hit or Miss: Hit

Theme: Evil is on the loose. Ann-Sofie Back shocked us with some re-novelised nightmarish visions. Freddy Kruger joins hands with Chucky and his Bride; Frankenstein meets the little girl from The Exorcist—the list, O! Lord, never ends. The models slashed with zombie-like face paint, wearing eye-bulging contact lenses and caught in webs of dreamcatchers, sashayed down the runway possessed and ready to kill. Indeed, taking away the grotesque exterior, Back’s A/W 09 collection is the true killer.

Marked by the slashed and ripped design, the jeans, vests, dresses and skirts — all in monochromes of black, white and grey — are embellished with feather and pearl, leather and cross-stitching. And, there are varieties — from baseball jackets, sweatshirts to rag-and-ruffle cocktail dresses. It is unusual, yet wearable. It exudes the spirit of zombie punk that lives forever!

Credit Crunch Rating: Variety and wearability at the centre stage! Ann-Sofie Back definitely takes into account the paupers like us who would die for fashion.
Quality of Front Row: Can’t tell. I was too scared to keep my eyes open!
Quirk Level: Soaring
Target Market: Young, punk-ish crowd who loves to feel the bloody rushing through the veins.
Hit or Miss: If this writer were a girl, he would kill for these clothes.

Theme: With an intro that included an acrobat spinning out of a hoop, this collection was all set to entertain. Taking inspiration from the circus, fairground and escapism there were a handful of surprises in store.

Veering away from his usual sequined territory, Ashish rustled up colourful pieces including Americana inspired ringmaster coats, animal print tights, Christmas cardies, all topped off with pom poms galore. There was a distinctively celebratory mood with singer VV Brown accompanying the show. Neon animal prints, tigers emblazoned on denim and flower head dresses were motifs than ran throughout. This collection was all about kaleidoscopic pattern and texture, with ruffly roses popping up on jumpers. One highlight was a piano skirt that injected a sense of fun.

This all culminated in a bold collection that made you want to run away to the circus-but not before putting on those printed platforms of course!

Credit Crunch Rating: Forget it-let’s take a trip to the circus
Quality of Front Row: Fashion editors, journos with their notes, collectors
Quirk Level: Get your (circus) freak on
Target Market: Rebels that want to pack in the city life for the circus
Hit or Miss: Hit  

Theme: This ‘coming of age’ collection unfurled with multicoloured aplomb. Known for being digital print maestros, they upped the ante with a characteristic nod to the Baroque and an added dash of Marie Antoinette-like rebellion. Ornate colourful prints harked back to Rococo influences. Florals, stripes and hexagon patterns made the collection feel like the inside of a bizarre yet beautiful palette.

Leopard prints and accents of buttery gold revealed small shocks back to 80s Versace. This worked well with Stephen Jones’ two-dimensional wig hairbands, which contributed a surprising postmodernist-punky twist. The Japanese origamiesque silhouettes, pastel palettes and Marie Antoinette-like make up ensured a nice mix of the riotous and delicate. Oversized pearls in subtle greens and pinks along with simple turquoise brooches further added a soft touch.

Evoking Louis XIV, Versace and a ‘let them eat cake’ attitude, this lead to a dizzying concoction of influences. When blended together this all managed to taste smooth and fruity - the perfect combination of a number of surprising ingredients.

Credit Crunch Rating: Exuberant but wearable
Quality of Front Row: Fashion buyers and editors in shades.
Quirk Level: Mediocre. Busy prints with simple cuts.
Target Market: Modern day Marie-Antoinette
Hit or Miss: Hit

Theme: The ancient beauty of the Far East is given a futuristic face-lift. Inspired by the “Romance of the Far East,” Chandran’s A/W 09 collection encapsulates the world of glittering warriors and tranquil beauties on garments — a big leap forward from the glamour of Hero and the House of Flying Daggers.

Defying the traditional feminine cut that emphasises the natural shape, Chandran uses the combo of silk, cotton and PVC to create clothes with wild, futuristic silhouette that re-inscribes the aesthetics of body shape. Here we have: exaggerated warrior-like angular shoulders, voluminous sleeves and ultra-high necklines, while impressionist graphic prints and jaunty colours, such as turquoise, gold and red, free the collection from the economic gloom. In short, Chandran stuns his audience as he successfully and theatrically weaves futurism into history.

Credit Crunch Rating: No visible sign of the credit crunch. Chandran’s Far East is still far void of the financial meltdown.
Quality of Front Row: N/A
Quirk Level: Moderate to high. Some of the cuts are reminiscent of Balenciaga but Chadran’s impressionist prints are sublime.
Target Market: Grown-up fashionistas and red-carpet queens
Hit or Miss: Fit for the Oscar!

Theme: Youth and beauty. This was a celebration of all that was great about being 16 and carefree and gorgeous, few could get away with the willfully ragtag combinations. Quilted skirts, biker jackets, graffiti leggings, drain pipes, bovver boots, leopard, leather, sheer, ruffles, DIY chain belts, tattoos, bondage rope, full length, knee length, studs, chunky knits…

Models carried it all with an air of petulance bordering on menace. Charles can do pretty/geek/quirky like no one else but it’s no surprise that when he turns his hand to something a little more chaotic, even aggressive it just works. While this seemed on the surface unwearable but for the brave (and perfectly formed) few, broken down there were plenty of pieces that could work on just about anyone.

Credit Crunch Rating: Thrift inspired perhaps, but this is a rich kids version of the ‘budget look’ without the tiny price tag.
Quality of Front Row: Japanese buyers, Anastase followers, Diane Pernet…
Quirk Level: High – eccentric styling at its best.
Target m=Market: Pixie, Peaches, Daisy, Dellal et al
Hit or Miss: A perfectly scruffbag HIT

Theme: After hitting the heel on the head last season with his 80s inspired colourful array of denim and spots, Christopher Kane’s a/w ‘09 collection proved poles apart with a dominantly black palette. A mixture of checked patterns, double-breasted jackets and patent flat lace-ups gave the collection an androgynous edge. Nude colours and subtle ruffled hemlines added a touch of femininity with sheer still making a regular appearance. 

Spots turned to stripes this season with a recurring theme of black lines.  The Natural Born Killer soundtrack accompanied the collection down the catwalk and Kane both surprised and impressed his critics with perfectly structured pieces and classic form fitting dresses. 

Credit Crunch Rating: More street chic with a shift away from neon to shades of black and grey.
Quality of Front Row: Anna Piaggi (of Italian Vogue) and Twiggy were just a few of the lucky front row-ers. Kanye West arrived late so ended up standing!
Quirk Level: Not v high in the quirk levels; more muted and grown up, resulting in a sophisticated collection.
Target Market: Chain-smoking literature buff who’s too-cool-for-school.
Hit or Miss: Hit

Theme: Emma Bell’s collections are never restrained affairs. Instead one should expect a phantasmagorical explosion of glittery plastics, neon colours and tongue in cheek accessories. Entitled ‘I’m Saving the dogs’, taken from her trip to Thailand where she was appalled by the canal abuse; Bell decided to celebrate the eclectic lives of pooches-and hurrah to that!

A mix of flower print tights, gold jackets and strategically placed cones (in certain private areas) then made its entrée on the catwalk. All this was inspired by her trip to South East Asia where she spied painted folk masks and Chinese communist military wear.

Old skool classics such as ‘Lets Get Ready to Rumble’ and ‘Who Let the Dogs Out’ warmed the comedic cockles of the audience. Queue a stash of quilted PVC pieces, Bambi headdresses, Jodie Harsh, Sam and Amanda Marchant (of the Big Brother fame) and two frisky West Highland terriers and you get what this collection was all about - an explosive look-at-me London collection, in all it’s fun and fruity glory.

Credit Crunch Rating: Pants to the credit crunch when you’ve got glitter and gingerbread men necklaces.
Quality of Front Row: Fashion writers, scenesters and editorial women with distrustful eyes.
Quirk Level: High voltage
Target Market: Neon pooch lovers and fans of disco revel-in-excess banter.
Hit or Miss: Hit 

Theme: With a mixture of former fashion leading ladies and street-cast Camden locals walking down the catwalk, the Giles show looked set to stir the audiences expectations from the word go. Eighties supermodel Rachel Williams opened the show wearing a grey bustier dress and stern expression. This show meant business. 

There were thigh-high boots, studded leather structured skirts and fur all in metallic fabric and a palette of soft creams and pale yellows paired with the sharper hues of blacks and browns. Flat lace-ups went together with pop socks and wide brimmed hats gave a futuristic appeal to the collection. Although a somewhat random affair, it was clear from the show that Giles had played and had fun with his a/w ’09 collection. 

Credit Crunch Rating: Not effected
Quality of Front Row: High fashion set
Quirk Level: Anything goes as Giles says, "I wanted the madness, the fun, the experimentation of my student days".
Target Market: Glamour pusses who hint at the classic but make a huge nod to out-there Camden craziness.
Hit or Miss: Hit

Theme: Dark androgyny was the order of the day at Horace. Old hands at the modern Goth game the duo of Adam Entwisle and Emma Hales have been developing the label for seven years now, staying faithful their progressive routes throughout. AW09 channeled the "spirit of 18th century monks", we're not sure what the Monsignors would’ve made of it but there's a large section of the east London population who would sell their own grandmothers for a piece of Horace magic.

Knowing your customer is an essential part of developing your aesthetic and Horace has always had a sharp sense of what their target audience wants. Oversized knits, flashes of acid brights, shredded denim, hoods, morphed tartan prints, ultra tight leather trousers - punk via the monastery. 

Credit Crunch Rating: No signs of a cut back here, 'Primitive Luxury' can't be done on the cheap.
Quality of Front Row: Euro-cyber, buyers, frantic note-takers, keepers of the nu-rave legacy.
Quirk Level: Less humorous more serious minded edge.
Target Market: Kokon to Zai fans, neon techno lovers, priesthood drop outs.
Hit or Miss: Does exactly what it said on the tin. HIT

Theme: Water. Josh Goot’s collection has its emphasis on ‘colour, geometry, purity and optimism.’ Monochromes of black, grey and stone colour are accentuated by geometrical, pebble-like lines and a pair of ankle boots — almost as if the not-so-loose dresses were tightened up by the lines. Goot gives us some oversized blazers to soften the look.

As the show progressed, the silhouette became sharper, restricted in a way that it enhances the body. ‘Tis here that Goot showcases the mastery of draping as the model strutted down the runway in bandage dresses, jumpsuits, and mini-shirts. Yes, the clothes are now on the very tight side—and the models almost mummified! The show culminated in serene watercolour print keeping the audience in awe.

Credit Crunch Rating: Minimalism at its best
Quality of Front Row: N/A
Quirk Level: Love those bandage dresses but the geometrical idea is a bit too similar to Raf Simons did to Jil Sander menswear.
Target Market: Sleek and sophisticated missus with a great physique to show off
Hit or Miss: Close to the Hit.

Theme: Luella’s departure from the feminine, tea swilling girly look is a welcome relief. Instead it looks like this pony riding girl has gone to a rock concert, had a romp with an unsuitable fellow all in time to sneak into dorms before nightfall.

‘Cute Utilitarianism’ was the tag Luella Bartley gave her schoolgirl punky collection. Military caps and studs teamed with sharp cutting proved popular. Black/brown palettes topped with floral prints, metallics and silks ensured her playful sense of fun was still on offer.

Together with simple silhouettes with splashes of metallics, silks and in rare occasions, transparent material (tut! tut!); this all resulted in a naughty but nice collection. Toned down enough for this schoolgirl to get up to some midnight marauding with a local soldier but can still manage back in the dorms ready for a spot of crumpets and tea come morning!

Credit Crunch Rating: More sombre than her usual charming tea swilling collections
Quality of Front Row: Erin O’Connor, Kanye West, Peaches and Bob whilst Pixie stormed the runway
Quirk Level: Not that high
Target Market: Daddy’s little girls sneaking out to see a soldier or going to a rock prom
Hit or Miss: Hit

Theme: As if Nathan Jenden was predicting the return of the snowstorm that paralised London! At the centre of Jenden’s inspirations are the Eskimos, snow, icicles and a black-and-white ethnicological documentary from the 20s. Results? The collection that is dominated by the sleek contrast of black and white, edged up by the geometrical pleating and folding to resemble snowflakes.

There is also this intriguing mix of soft and hard silhouettes. Jenden incorporates nettings, bows, ruffles and embossed flowers onto the garments. Dresses are his highlights and matched with ankle boots, while the origami-like weaving of cloth becomes his signature. Undeniably, it is Jenden’s attention to detail that stunned the audience. Proof? The white mock-origami, Chinese lantern dress that gives the illusive beauty of the snowflake.

Credit Crunch Rating: The collection still shouts ‘High Fashion’ rather than ‘High Street’. It’s unlikely that Jenden targeted the credit-crunch sufferers
Quality of Front Row: Fit for the Queen. Special thanks for finger sandwiches, tea and cakes
Quirk Level: Very much, and with dimmed hope, we are learning how to fold a paper-looking dress
Target Market: Young, slim and well-off socialites
Hit or Miss: It’s a hit, if you can afford it, but ‘tis a miss, if you can’t

Theme: As the newest addition to the so-hip-it-hurts Fashion East fold, Natascha Stolle proved to everyone just why this position was deserved with her A/W 09 collection. No flesh needed bearing in order to achieve Stolles sexy-girl attitude. Her oversized sweaters, loose tailoring and subtle sheer fabrics make her collection cool. A menagerie of graphic prints, grey cowl necks and ankle length dresses proved more powerful that any in-your-face methods she could have used. 

Her clothes were easy to wear in a mostly grey palette with her jersey dresses, over-sized beanie hats, off-centered zips and boxy blazers letting us know the reason why she was back with Fashion East for a second season.

Credit Crunch Rating: Slouchy relaxed shapes hints that we should all take a chill pill when it comes to credit crunch stress
Quality of Front Row: PR people and buyers
Quirk Level: Not too high
Target Market: Blood-red lipstick wearing heroine who’d rather have a smoke and view life floating by
Hit or Miss: Hit

Theme: Show press releases are an ever reliable source of amusement, picking one up from your seat you’re sure to be treated to a spectacular display of ‘Fash-speak’ at its finest. Bordering on the nonsensical, this season has been no exception. However, Peter Jensen, never one for pretention, created a collection based around a (fictional?) diary entry from his Danish Aunt, Jytte, who reminisces about her move to Greenland – quaint, funny and devoid of any affected fashion prose.

From here the collection continues the theme of the familiar; comfort, family, home, the link between location and dress. Floral puffas, Eskimo hoods, Nordic textiles, polar bear prints. This was style in a cold climate – scandanavian references and a strong homemade/craft feel made for the catwalk equivalent of a warm blanket and a cup of tea on a chilly day.

Credit Crunch Rating: Medium – leaned towards ‘cute’ rather than ‘luxury’
Quality of Front Row: Kanye himself, editor royalty and just about every styler in London
Quirk Level: As you’d expect from PJ - High
Target Market: Any one who finds Uggs offensive but enjoys a good pair of thermals
Hit or Miss: HIT HIT HIT

Theme: PPQ caused tuts and rolling of eyes with a rather awkward choice of venue, the cute but tiny Burlington Arcade which limited audience size and caused a commotion for those struggling to get to their seats. The show itself displayed no signs of the current air of doom and gloom – this was colour in the extreme.

Wide horizontal stripes in purple, red, blue, yellow and mint green adorned full length dresses and knitwear. Ruffles, tartans and checks in autumnal colours had a hint of the Westwoods about them while Pixie Geldolf, in head to toe burnt orange, joined by ‘gal pals’ Daisy Lowe and Alice Dellal made for a show that was unquestionably flashbulb worthy.

Credit Crunch Rating: Low – celeb favourites don’t come cheap
Quality of Front Row: Medium - Alexa, Nicola Girls Aloud, Barbara Hulanicki
Quirk Level: Head-to-tie stripes - High
Target Market: Shrinking violets, wallflowers and the colour-shy need not apply
Hit or Miss: HIT

Sharp cutting, bodices and necklines that pointed to the throat gave pieces a dark and sexy architectural edge. In these outfits one could take on the world, seduce the next-in-line prince and simultaneously de-thone him before the day was out.

Furthermore, the emblazoned prints, painstakingly thought out ruffles and clean-cut edges gave pieces a modern armored feel. This woman’s body is not just a sexual object, for it is a tool for potential destruction. Tempest proves he can do modern classic; ensuring an intoxicatingly provocative yet ultimately powerful woman emerges.

Credit Crunch Rating: Completely unaffected. This is fashion darling!
Quality of Front Row: The likes of Jasmine Guinness, Jade Parfitt and Emma Watson  
Quirk Level: Not very high, more classic
Target Market: Regal temptresses who have a thirst for power and modern day Lady Macbeth's
Hit or Miss: Hit